Picking an engagement ring is nerve-wracking, whether you're planning a surprise proposal and shopping alone or you've decided to go to the store as a couple and select one together. The options for cuts, settings, and quality can become overwhelming—fast.
Here, experts Mariana Hay, co-owner of Croghan's Jewel Box, and Olivia Landau, founder of The Clear Cut, walk you through the specifics of 11 different popular cuts to let you in on what's unique about every style—the shape, the sparkle factor, the history, the celebrity fans, and more—so you can find the perfect gem for your perfect partner (or yourself).
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Marquise Cut
"A marquise- or navette-cut diamond, or 'little boat' in French, was commissioned originally by King Louis XV to mimic the lips of his mistress Madame du Pompadour," says Hay. The wider center and pointed ends of this cut elongate the 58-facet jewel. "People love marquise-cut diamonds because of their unique shape and how well they show their carat weight," says Landau.
This cut, all the rage in the 1970s, has seen a recent increase in popularity, with celebrities including Catherine Zeta-Jones and Victoria Beckham sporting the style. "A marquise is perfect for the bride who oozes glamour—with a little bit of a sharp edge," says Hay.
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Cushion Cut
The cushion cut is a cross between a rectangle and an oval; it has a pillow shape, and it is also called an antique cut. "Cushion cuts come in many variations," says Landau. "Some antique cushion cuts have larger chunky facets, and some modern ones can have crushed ice faceting."
This diamond style, which dates back to the 18th century, is typically cut with between 58 and 64 facets, says Hay. "The extra row of facets give them the crushed ice look they’re known for. Feminine, dazzling, and strong, this stone was made popular again by Meghan Markle," she adds.
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Emerald Cut
An emerald cut (originally developed for the gem of the same name) is rectangular with cropped corners and step cut facets that "appear like a hall of mirrors," says Landau. "The most popular emerald cut silhouetteis a tennis-court proportion,with a 1.3 to 1.4 length to width ratio. Recently,more elongated proportions have become very on trend."
This cut works best with a high-clarity diamond, like the ones worn by Grace Kelly and Amal Clooney, says Hay. "The step cut does not allow for any facet junctions, therefore the light that enters an emerald cut does not have the ability to reflect in the same manner as other cuts," she says. "Clarity matters greatly, as all imperfections are easily perceived in emerald cut diamonds. An emerald cut diamond is a statement of beauty and refined elegance—it is unequivocally beautiful."
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Asscher Cut
Pippa Middleton, Elizabeth Taylor, and Gwyneth Paltrow all opted for Asscher cut diamonds. The design, named after diamond designer Joseph Asscher, is "cut with squares-within-a-square," says Hay. "However, when you look down the middle of the stone, you'll notice a separate pattern that creates a windmill effect."
In the 1990s, the cut was redesigned to add 16 more facets; this newer cut is called the Royal Asscher. "Asscher cut diamonds were very popular in the 1920s, and people love them for their Art-Deco aesthetic," says Landau.
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Princess Cut
The square princess cut is a more recent addition to the engagement ring scene, becoming popular in the late 20th century, says Hay. "These stones carry most of their carat weight in the pavilion, which may cause them to appear smaller than others of same carat weight," she says. "However, they make up for their size with their sparkle."
The sharp corners make the stones more apt to chip, so Hay recommends a bezel setting, like the one seen here. "A princess cut diamond is unique and unconventional," says Hay. "For the hopeless romantic who wants her diamond to stand out for its geometry rather than its size, this cut complements the excitement of the bride-to-be!"
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Round Cut
Nearly 200 years after their debut, round diamonds received an update from diamond designer Marcel Tolkowsky, who created the round brilliant cut that's still a timeless choice for many brides today.
"Round brilliant diamonds are cut to maximize brilliance and fire," says Landau. "We recommend choosing a round brilliant diamond with a triple excellent cut—meaning excellent cut, polish, and symmetry—to guarantee the most symmetrical shape and sparkle." These "elegant, romantic" rings are "said to signify an eternal love, for a circle has no end," says Hay.
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Pear Cut
With a history that goes as far back as the 15th century, the teardrop-shaped pear cut is an eternally popular choice. "A pear is perfect for the bride who wants something striking, but romantic," says Hay.
The cut combines the 58-facet-cut of a round or oval diamond with the delicate point of a marquise. "Pear-shapeddiamonds are great for showing their carat weight," says Landau.
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Oval Cut
As a slightly elongated version of a round cut—and a softer version of a marquise—oval-cut diamonds are increasingly common engagement ring requests (just ask Hailey Bieber, Serena Williams, and Blake Lively). "More elongated ovals, with ratios over 1.5, have become more popular recently," says Landau. "They are elongated and finger-flattering."
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Baguette Cut
Similar to an emerald cut, baguette cut diamonds are "an elongated step cut shape with pointed corners," says Landau. This shape comes straight or tapered, and is cut with just 14 facets. Since they give off a fraction of the sparkle cast by other stones with more than triple that number, they are typically used as smaller side stones to accent a larger center diamond.
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Radiant Cut
The radiant cut combines the geometric silhouette of a square or rectangular diamond and the cut corners of an emerald shape with the faceting of a round. "They are distinctlydifferent [from an emerald cut]because they have a modified brilliant faceting patternversus an emeraldcut'sstep cut faceting pattern," says Landau. "Radiant cuts are a great option if you love the silhouette of an emerald cut but want more sparkle."
Hay describes the shape as "an elongated octagonal silhouette with unmatched sparkle," listing Jennifer Aniston and Drew Barrymore among its wearers.
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Old-European and Old-Mine Cuts
Both of these antique cuts have been upgraded for contemporary brides, says Landau: "Old-Europeancuts are the antique versionof today'smodern round brilliant, and the Old-Mine cut is the antique version of today's modern-day cushion cut."
Whether you're searching for an antique ring or recreating a vintage cut, look for features common to both rings. "Both of these antique cuts were hand-cut and are known for theirchunky facets, the presence of a culet—an extra facet at point, a small table, and a steep crown angle," says Landau.