When it comes to the aesthetic and cultural trends that will influence the jewelry and watch industry in 2024, we’re happy to report that, among our sources, there is a fair degree of consensus.
Blue and green gems will continue to be the dueling quarterbacks of the gem business. Two-tone and white metals are on the ascent. Statement earrings and collar necklaces are the new staples. And don’t expect nostalgia for the ’80s and ’90s to wane.
But when—inspired by a recent T Magazine article—we asked a cohort of 14 creatives and tastemakers six questions about the new year, we were struck by the diversity of their forecasts, which ranged from an engagement recovery that is expected to unfold over the next three years, according to Zales president Kecia Caffie, to continued debates over “the provenance of jewels and the stories that make them special,” as Rosena Sammi, founder and CEO of the fashion site The Jewelry Edit, so eloquently put it.
For all the variety you’ll find below, however, you may also recognize, as we did, the subtext of apprehension and uncertainty that shadowed many people’s comments. A few of our respondents suggested neutral and earth tones might be a natural response to the geopolitical tensions that will undoubtedly paint the new year. Here’s looking at you, Peach Fuzz!
Which colors will dominate?
“In terms of stones, we’re seeing designers put more emphasis on gemstones that yield one-of-a-kind coloration. Specifically, I’ve found that gems with unique blue and purple tones like sapphire and spinel are becoming popular within that movement.”
—Camille Zarsky, owner and founder, The Seven, New York City
“Customers continue to love yellow gold, especially earrings, like our Sculpted 14k gold hoops, and chain necklaces. Even in bridal we are seeing customers liking engagement rings set in yellow gold. We are noticing an increase in customers gravitating toward colorful gemstones such as blue topaz, emerald, and sapphire, as jewel tones are increasingly popular.”
—Kecia Caffie, president of Zales, Dallas
“It’s easy to say blue, green, and pink will continue to dominate in the high-end collectible gemstone world, but I’m also seeing the possibility of black and gold juxtaposed.”
—Elizabeth “Beth Anne” Bonanno, founder of the EAB Project and cofounder of the Gems Project
“Greens and blues, with their soothing properties, will dominate. Green will continue to be a popular choice, but we will see a renewed interest in the calmness and serenity that blue evokes—its variations from light sky blues to bolder, ocean-inspired blues will allow customers to explore their moods.”
—Rosena Sammi, founder of The Jewelry Edit, NYC
“My prediction is that neutral colors that provide the most wearability will be important in the coming year. I think we will see monochromatic, understated color—think khaki, taupe, and white colors worn with yellow gold.”
—Anne Russell, executive vice president of Hamilton Jewelers, Princeton, N.J.
“Burgundy, hot pink, and black (even though black isn’t a color!).”
—Katherine Jetter, founder and owner of The Vault Nantucket
“Interestingly, I think metallicswill dominate. Designers are making signature styles that put emphasis on the shape rather than the stone.”
—Randi Molofsky, JCK jewelry director and owner of For Future Reference
“The end of this year has already seen a wave of consumption of rose to peach tones in gems of all categories, and this will likely continue to trend next year. I also see the vibrant blue-greens really having a moment. Paraiba has become so inaccessiblein terms of price and availability—this could very well drive up the demand for lagoon tourmalines and blue zircons.”
—Dave Bindra, vice president and head of acquisitions atB&BFine Gems,Los Angeles
“The color depends on the consumer we will approach, as yellow gold will still be very strong in all fine jewelry, but the surprise is the white gold applied in high-end creations.”
—Roberto Coin, founder and designer of his eponymous brand, Vicenza, Italy
“I think we’re going to see two themes: The first will be more earth/neutral colors, which tend to complement a broad range of skin tones and appeal to a broad and more gender-neutral audience. The second will be the use of bright and bold colors—think blues, yellows, oranges, and reds. Rolex really ushered in the use of bright colors with the Oyster Perpetual line in 2021 and their recent puzzle dial DayDates, and I expect the industry to continue following their lead in this regard.”
—Jason Gong, founder of Complecto, NYC
“White metals! Silver, platinum, and white gold will have a resurgence.”
—Lisa Bridge, CEO of Ben Bridge Jeweler, Seattle
Which style, designer, gemstone, or issue will have a comeback?
“I’m looking at moonstone and bright shiny materials that are not super-expensive but bring lots of life to a piece of jewelry.”
—Louisa Guinness, owner of Louisa Guinness Gallery, London
“I think we are going to see a bit more two-tone mixing of yellow and white gold. I’ve noticed designers have been incorporating both metals, especially yellow gold with touches of white. I’m starting to see a lot of spinel and have also noticed that interesting shades of emerald are making their way into the fold and have been successful. We’ve had a few mint emerald pieces that sold immediately, so I feel this is a good indication that this will be a strong trend in 2024.”
—Camille Zarsky
“In bridal, marquise-shaped diamonds have made a comeback, for center stones and accent stones in bands and engagement rings. We’ve noticed customers are shopping more black diamonds in both engagement rings and diamond bands. We are continuing to see timeless styles like tennis necklaces and bracelets rise in popularity, with a noticeable increase in customer demand over the last two years. And as consumers have been increasingly wearing more earrings in multiple holes, leaning into the ‘ear party’ trend, we’ve seen staples such as diamond hoops trend upward in sales.”
—Kecia Caffie
“For style, I say the ’90s: chunky gold chains, chokers with giant pendants, and big embellished hoops. Think Chanel and Versace. Also, layers that aren’t a neck mess. I see a 14- to 18-inch delicate diamond, pearl, and gemstone necklace layered with a pendant and a long strand of smaller pearls or beads, maybe wrapped around the neck twice, to create that doubled effect. That’s coming back for sure. It’s a cleaner layer, but each piece is different. Imagine that look of a slip dress, short hair, and thinner eyebrows—the ’90s are coming for you.”
—Elizabeth “Beth Anne” Bonanno
“Men’s jewelry and unisex jewelry styles will likely be more prevalent and we can expect they will be a larger part of jewelers’ assortments in 2024.”
—Anne Russell
“I feel like white gold is going to come back in style.”
—Katherine Jetter
“I think we’ll see a return to a large drop statement earring. Remember chandeliers? They are back and bigger than ever. Also, that slow movement toward a return to white metal is finally happening. Look for it in sleek, modern styles and mixed with yellow gold.”
—Randi Molofsky
“I see garnets really coming back in a big way! Malayas have been hot as of late and I think mandarin and tsavorite garnet alike will also have a lot of interest in 2024.”
—Dave Bindra
“The secondhand approach will get stronger attention, but through a restyle by the brands together with coordinated warranty.”
—Roberto Coin
“Designer fine jewelry houses’ archival pieces reimagined.”
—Lorraine West, designer, NYC
“I think the more glamorous aesthetic from the ’70s/’80s is making a resurgence and I expect to see more gem-set watches and the increased use of precious stone dials across a broad range of price points.”
—Jason Gong
What design/motif will we fall in love with?
“Things with humor. We all love something that amuses us.”
—Louisa Guinness
“Brushed gold! We are seeing more and more of it. Pairing it with the brilliance of diamonds makes for a truly timeless and breathtaking combination. We have a nice collection of brushed gold pieces from Gwen Barba that were custom-created for the store, which I’m very excited about.”
—Camille Zarsky
“For engagement rings, we anticipate the continued rise of toi et moi styles. While they were a favorite amongst celebrities in early 2023, we believe they will continue to rise in popularity in 2024, particularly featuring different fancy-cut stones or various gemstones such as a pearl and emerald. [We’re predicting] a growing trend of mixing metals within a single piece (white gold and yellow gold). We think yellow gold will continue to be popular, like our PDPaola @ Zales collection, and our new launched designer collection Zales x Alessi Domenico, featuring custom designs crafted in Italy.”
—Kecia Caffie
“Animals and celestial motifs aren’t going anywhere.”
—Elizabeth “Beth Anne” Bonanno
“Given the state of tumult and stress both here and abroad regarding politics and peace, in 2024, we will be seeking sources of good energy and protection. The horseshoe will remaina highly coveted motif in our jewelry selections. The horseshoe’sability to catch and hold good luck will reignite an even greater love affair with this ancient source of protection and prosperity.”
—Rosena Sammi
“Mixed- and modern-shaped diamonds.”
—Anne Russell
“The tennis necklace is here to stay!”
—Katherine Jetter
“Collar necklaces!The chunkier, shorter style is all the rage and feels reminiscent of othereras, including the’80s. Torques are also back, and are being strung with oversized pendants.”
—Randi Molofsky
“Volume, gloss, gold, vibrant, fresh. A juxtaposition of contradictions—high and low, banal and dramatic, frivolous and serious. We want to have a lot more fun and be bolder. Antique-cut diamonds and gemstones, the use of alternative materials, moving away from the mundane, pushing people to challenge themselves.”
—Roshni Jhaveri, cofounder of Studio Renn, Mumbai
“In terms of a design motif, I think we’re going to see either maximalist approaches or totally minimalist aesthetics. The stealth wealth trend is definitelyhere to stay, but I see bold motifs making waves at least in the world of color.”
—Dave Bindra
“The floral pattern will remain a must with our Princess Flower, Love in Verona, and Venetian Princess collections as protagonists.”
—Roberto Coin
“Dangler earrings (I want to say phallic, however it may not be appropriate).”
—Lorraine West
“Mixed metals and two-tone, just because white metals are coming back, we’re not walking away from our beloved yellow gold! It’s time to mix them. We are also seeing chain styling evolve. While the paper-clip chain is still very popular, bead chains are taking off.”
—Lisa Bridge
What will the dominant aesthetic trend be?
“I think there could be a move into using other metals, and experiments with patinas, given the exorbitant price of gold. We will see much more use of colored treatments on metals and mixed finishes.”
—Louisa Guinness
“The modern-day customer is moving away from tradition and strict fashion rules, accessorizing in many different ways. No one is tied to one aesthetic anymore. Customers want to have their own unique experience and it is important that Zales has something for everyone.”
—Kecia Caffie
“I see gemstone rivières with an unexpected design element being a must-have. And going back to thecomebacks, I think it can play with either of those vibes very well. It will just depend on the scale.”
—Elizabeth “Beth Anne” Bonanno
“I think we’ll see a more minimal vibe—sleeker, more contemporary, and a little less flashy.”
—Randi Molofsky
“In design—from fashion and product to furniture—there has been a throwback to all things vintage and analog, all things ’80s.”
—Roshni Jhaveri
“I think there will be a hyper elegant attitude to style.”
—Roberto Coin
“Rocker chic.”
—Lorraine West
“We will continue to see an emphasis on pieces that are wearable everyday with fewer stones and more metal showing.We also expect to see people favoring larger statement pieces over dainty layering.Customers want to invest in quality pieces with the craftsmanship to ensure they can be passed down for generations.”
—Lisa Bridge
What do you hope will happen in the industry?
“People continue to support smaller brands and designers and the big brands don’t take over and squish new talent.”
—Louisa Guinness
“I hope more collectors continue to embrace limited-edition pieces, giving designers a chance to collaborate with retailers or trend setters in creating exciting unique jewelry.”
—Camille Zarsky
“We recently stated the multiyear engagement recovery has begun as we predicted, with engagement ring units rebounding in recent weeks. Couples moving in together, a late-stage milestone, was up nine points from early 2022 and Google searches for engagement rings are 10% higher than last year. The engagement recovery will be gradual and will play out over the next three years. This is great news for us because it will be a consistent three-year tailwind that we can leverage for both business and share growth.”
—Kecia Caffie
“Big box stores that sell a lot of jewelry go back to hiring knowledgeable people in their departments and training associates on how to sell luxury products. I have met some of the most amazing salespeople in those doors, but for every great associate, there are five that are only clerks. They must be trained in selling luxury; they are pulled from another department without jewelry knowledge and thrown to the wolves. It’s absolutely shocking.”
—Elizabeth “Beth Anne” Bonanno
“I hope the interest and enthusiasm in promoting diversity and social responsibility in the jewelry industry will continue. I hope the rest of the industry will continue allocating attention and resources to these important issues and not move on to new trends or priorities.As an industry, we must continue working diligently on these long-standing challenges; progress is slow and incremental, and we are still farfrom resolution.”
—Rosena Sammi
“Bold statement earrings will come back strong.”
—Katherine Jetter
“We hope that 2024 can be a pivotal moment in jewelry design. It seems like it would be a tumultuous year politically and economically. But uncertainty always fuels creativity.”
—Roshni Jhaveri
“There is a scary amount of misinformation out there and I hope it motivates wholesalers and retailers alike to better educate themselves. Our role ultimately should be to protect the consumer and help people celebrate momentous occasions with beauty. I hope we can regain focus on that.”
—Dave Bindra
“This is a complicated question, but it is over 2,000 years that people fall in love with jewels and I have no doubt that those brands which are synonymous with ethics and quality will have a certain future.”
—Roberto Coin
“Diversity.”
—Lorraine West
“I hope that we will see brands leaning more heavily into inclusion and accessibility as a way to more effectively engage the underrepresented consumer. There are so many people out there who love watches, but who the watch industry has historically overlooked. This represents a huge growth opportunity for the industry.”
—Jason Gong
“Continued efforts on the ever-evolving path of sourcing responsibly.Taking care of people, the planet, and ensuring we continue to push for ever improving supply chain transparency.Enhancing our openness and willingness to collaborate on the challenging issues to create a healthier industry for all stakeholders.”
—Lisa Bridge
What else will we be talking about?
“Who is the next rising star?”
—Louisa Guinness
“We recently announced that we are evolving our campaigns to speak to the consumer more authentically for their everyday jewelry needs. Our customers want a curated message that genuinely speaks to who they are and what’s important to them. The ‘Love Real’ campaign aims to elevate expressions of modern love by spotlighting all the nuanced humanity of real relationships—the moments in between the moments that make up real love stories, whether they be beautiful and/or unexpected.”
—Kecia Caffie
“I hope we continually discuss and push small business sustainability in the marketplace. I expect opportunities for representation to be expanded for many of the designers in the industry, and that continued outreach and support happens for those who face unjustified obstacles. And that these obstacles are continually talked about, realized, and ultimately removed. Specifically, barriers that are faced and experienced by Black, indigenous and people of color working hard to make a place for themselves in our industry, not only as designers but in every corner of our world.”
—Elizabeth “Beth Anne” Bonanno
“Jewelry’shistoryand origin stories will continue to be a talking point amongst jewelry enthusiasts. Whether positive or contentious, we will explore and debate the provenance of jewels and the stories that make them special.”
—Rosena Sammi
“Vintage jewelry that can be reimagined for a new, younger clientele, creating a personalized, one-of-a-kind experience.”
—Anne Russell
“Synthetic vs. real diamonds. Educating the end consumerwill be key.”
—Katherine Jetter
“Diamonds will take the stage, with the new embargo for Russia and the laboratory diamonds.”
—Roberto Coin
“Complecto, I hope! We’re continuing to grow and scale our platform which is focused on elevating underrepresented voices and welcoming more women and people of color into the industry and hobby. We’re also working on a couple of collaborations with some amazing brands that share our values around diversity, inclusion, and accessibility in the industry.”
—Jason Gong
“Diamond origin will continue to be an important topic both for the geopolitical implications as well as consumer expectations.Tell a rich story and back it up with substantive traceability and impact.”
—Lisa Bridge
Top: Circular Shell earrings in 18k white gold with ombré sapphires and diamonds, price on request; Studio Renn
