Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (2024)

For those diamond shoppers who are obsessed with vintage style, or even for someone looking for a change from the common modern diamond cuts, vintage and antique shapes are an excellent alternative. There are several different vintage diamond cuts still on the market today. These include: point cuts, single cuts, rose cut diamonds, old mine cushion cuts, old European cuts, and Asschers. These antique diamond shapes are a throwback to as early as the Middle Ages, when diamond cutting was a new phenomenon.

If vintage diamond cuts are such a great alternative to modern shapes, then why aren’t they more widely advertised and sold? This is because diamond cutting priorities, tastes, and technology have changed over the years. Modern diamond shapes are cut to maximize sparkle, but vintage diamond cuts are meant to maximize carat weight. In today’s market, sparkle is still most shoppers’ first priority. Unless that changes, vintage diamond cuts will remain an unconventional choice.

Point Cut Diamonds

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Point cut diamonds date back to the Middle Ages. Widely recognized as the first diamond cut, a point diamond is not actually “cut” at all, at least not by modern diamond cutting standards. Point cuts were created by keeping a diamond in a natural octahedron shape and polishing it to apoint (hence the name). This way, the natural octahedral facets were more symmetrical. Improved symmetry plus a fine polish job combine in the point cut to create a much sparklier diamond.

Single Cuts

Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (2)

A diagram of a single cut diamond from different angles. Photo credit: All About Gemstones.

Also known as the eight cut, single cut diamonds traditionally have eight crown facets and eight pavilion facets. Single cuts, known for their octagonal shape, can be dated back to the 1300s. Today, single cuts have been modified to have a rounder shape, and they have more facets. They are often used inmicropavé diamond jewelry, to enhance the sparkle of larger brilliant cut diamonds.

Rose Cut Diamonds

Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (3)

Originating in the mid-16thcentury, rose-cut diamonds are named for their shape, which should resemble a rosebud in bloom. Rose cuts have triangular facets, but are circular in shape. It used to be the case that you could only find rose cut diamonds in antique pieces, but they have recently become more popular again. Jennifer Aniston’s massiveyellow gold engagement ringfeatures a rose cut diamond.

Old Mine Cut

Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (4)

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The Old Mine cut is the predecessor of the modern cushion-cut diamond. It shares the same pillow-like silhouette as the cushion-cut, but with larger facets. The old mine cut was most popular in the 18th and 19th centuries and was cut to sparkle in the candlelight.

Learn More About the Old Mine Cut

Old European Cut

Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (5)

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About 100 years after the Old Mine cut was invented, the Old European cut was born. Old European cuts are known as being the predecessor of today’s ever-popular round brilliant. They are circular in shape, and quite similar to the old mine cut in terms of faceting. Because it is so close to the modernround brilliant cut, the old European shape is often described as the most “advanced” vintage diamond cut.

Learn More About the Old European Cut

Asscher Cut Diamonds

Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (6)

In addition to cushion cuts,Asscher cut diamondsare a modern take on a vintage diamond shape. Created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the Asscher cut was the first patented “signature” diamond cut. The Asscher cut diamond has been one of the most popular diamond cuts since its invention. Today, Asscher cuts have less pronounced corners, more facets, and a larger table than they had when they were first developed.

Vintage Diamond Cuts: A Quick Guide (2024)

FAQs

Are old cut diamonds valuable? ›

As modern jewellery generally use modern machine-cut stones, old mine cut and old European cut diamonds are more rare, and therefore may be more valuable to those who enjoy antiquity with their jewellery.

What is the most sought after diamond cut? ›

The most expensive diamond cut is the round brilliant

And it's not just because it's the most in-demand: The round brilliant has the most facets of any shape, which require more precision work, and cutters have to discard more of the rough diamond, so you essentially pay for a larger stone than you end up with.

Are 100 year old diamonds worth more? ›

In most cases, the precise qualification is that the diamond be around since the 1930's. The value of a diamond is said to increase with age, so the older the diamond, the more expensive the diamond is said to be.

When did they stop making old cut diamonds? ›

What is an Old European-Cut Diamond? As you might guess, these diamonds are cut in a style developed in Europe and popular from 1890 to 1930. If you find an antique ring with a round diamond from this period, it very likely features an old European cut, often abbreviated as "OEC."

What is an old cut diamond called? ›

The old mine cut (or cushion cut) enjoyed its heyday from the early 18th century to the latter end of the 19th century, and is now most commonly found in jewellery of the Georgian and Victorian eras.

How to tell an old cut diamond? ›

As compared to the modern cushion cut, old mine cut diamonds have a smaller table, taller crown, deeper pavilion, chunkier facets and open culet rather than a pointy tip.

Which diamond cut holds its value? ›

For example, because round diamonds are the most popular and desired diamond shape, a round diamond will fetch a higher price on the secondhand market than, say, a marquise diamond with the exact same attributes.

What is the least popular cut of diamonds? ›

The three least known diamond shapes
  • Ashley Bean. Pear.
  • Emerald.
  • Gray Box Studios. Emerald Halo Ring.
Mar 10, 2021

Which diamond cut is timeless? ›

Always Timeless: Round Brilliant

The round brilliant is the most popular diamond and a great choice for the woman who appreciates classic style. A round brilliant cut diamond maximizes the amount of reflected light, giving it incredible sparkle, especially when compared with other cuts.

What is considered a vintage diamond? ›

The term antique is generally applied to items at least one hundred years old; stones cut in the 1930s and 40s still exhibit antique cutting styles even if they're not quite one hundred years old, so can be considered vintage. It's a fair bet that almost all antique diamonds are also post-consumer.

Are vintage diamonds blood diamonds? ›

Almost all diamonds that were mined in the 1980s or earlier are conflict free diamonds. Vintage diamonds and antique diamonds are a safe, ethical choice that also allow you to own a piece of history.

Are vintage diamonds better? ›

Their unique cuts and weight also boost their value since they're different from modern diamonds. Old diamonds are valued for their history, but this doesn't always mean they're pricier than modern diamonds, which are prized for their perfection in cut and clarity.

Why are old cut diamonds cheaper? ›

This is because they were often recut into modern shapes — a process that resulted in part of the original diamond going to waste. Today, antique cut diamonds are in demand specifically because they're old and unlike modern cuts, meaning they tend to sell for similar prices to equivalent diamonds in modern cuts.

Why are antique diamonds yellow? ›

Many antique diamonds fall under the J, K, L and M colour grades, which means they have a slightly yellow tint to them. This is because most of the rough diamonds coming out of mines in these times were warmer in colour.

What is a miner's diamond? ›

Old Mine Cut diamonds have 58 facets, just like the modern-day Round Brilliant Cut, but the proportions largely differ from the ones sported in modern-era cuts. Compared to Round Brilliant diamonds, their table is smaller, their crown higher and their culet larger. In addition, their shape is more square than round.

Do diamonds lose value with age? ›

In general, diamonds do not increase significantly in value over time. Outside of a small number of rare or colored diamonds, the vast majority of diamonds have decreased slightly in value over the last few years, making them a poor investment from a price appreciation perspective.

Are diamonds worth more now than 40 years ago? ›

Index data tracking the historical diamond prices changes up to actual prices. Diamond prices increases about 14% each year since 1960! Past performance does not guarantee the performance of the future.

Are old mine cut diamonds worth it? ›

Old mine cut diamonds, for the most part, are pretty affordable. They are priced based on the same 4Cs as modern diamonds, but because their quality tends to be on the lower end of the scale (a lot of the higher color/clarity stones have been recut to reflect today's standards), they're usually more affordable.

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